Leaving Portland, we hopped on the 5 heading South. A break in the weather gave us the opportunity for a dryer drive during the day. As the drive continued, light precipitation turned into a driving rain on and off until we reached the coast. Our stay for the night was anticipated outside of Coos Bay, OR on a tiny strip of BLM land. We scoped out the location in the dark, as is usual by now, and noticed a half dozen vehicles (vans, cars, trucks and an RV) parked in a large sand lot. This isn't really our type of camping spot so we ventured on further. A few potential locations were axed due to their inaccessibility from the rain. Other camping options in the area were for a paid site and with car camping, its senseless to pay $25 just to sleep in our vehicle in a parking spot. After about two hours of searching the region, we finally returned to the sand lot mentioned before, set up the car for sleep and let the rain continue to wash over the area.
In the morning, we broke camp fairly quickly and without much dismay. The rain let up and so we were able to dryly pack. The gnome continued South on the 101 for more sun and sand. The drive to Eureka CA was fairly uneventful and our BLM location was a complete flop. Having failed campsites numerous times in a week is stressful and draining at this point. A last ditch effort was to mosey down to the Bear River Casino in Loleta which offered free overnight parking for up to 72 hours. SOLD
This was the first time in our trip we humbled to the casino parking lot. [We have yet to stay at a Walmart overnight] It was actually a pretty good deal. We made a gaming profile at the front desk and got $10 worth of credit on the machines, then security wrote us a tag for the rig and we parked up in the rear lot with a bunch of other travelers including vans and a handful of RV's. It wasnt exactly the quietest night in the parking lot and the lights penetrated any little hole but we appreciated the free housing. Every so often, we would stroll down to the casino and put a dollar or two in the machines, use the rest rooms, and then work our way back to the camper. While in town, we had the opportunity to walk around the old town with its quaint shops and local vibe. We also visited Eureka Park near the zoo which offered short walks in a dense redwood park right in the center of the suburbs. Even though the rain was sporadic throughout the day, we put our smiles on a had a good time.
The second night at the casino, the weather forecast for our area called for a heavy rain event with high winds up to 35mph. At 2 AM, we awoke to the wind blowing the sails of the camper. It was decided we needed to pack up so we broke down the lot, made the car ready for the rest of our evening and turned in around 4 AM while the winds blew outside. Yuck. The next morning was clear and we made tracks to see the Redwood State/National Park including Fern Canyon and Lady Bird Johnson Grove; locations for fun finds from a friend of ours. When we checked in at the visitor center, they warned that due to the high amount of rain in the recent days, Fern Canyon was closed for the season but the road was still partially open. Deciding to drive that route, we traveled through dense lush vegetation and out to the beach. Grey overcast skies and hard waves pummeled the raw beaches as rivers flowed from the hills down to the sand. Eventually, we reached the point where Subaru would not do well without a snorkel and we backtracked just in time to find the road we came in on was now closed and we had to drive through a large, now-flooded, depression in the road. A short drive north brought us to the Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway with its hosts of giant trees and short trails to venture. The last bit of the day was spent in Lady Bird Johnson Grove which Liz and I particularity enjoyed. The 12% grade up the length of hills made us thankful the gnome was at home. As the rain started up again, we donned our rain gear and with exploration still in our boots, we mucked on through the trees to find hidden groves and mini mushrooms untouched by man; or at least that's how we felt in the Prehistoric lands.
On our way out of Eureka, we stopped by Chapman's Gem & Mineral Shop. We usually don't stop at many roadside attractions cause if you stop at one, you must do them all, but something called us to this shop. They had just opened for the day and we were in awe. The decor was nothing to call home about but the stones and specimens were museum quality from a man and his family who have spent decades collecting and organizing the lot. A fantastic time was spent and before we rolled out, a purchase of a pink salt lamp was made due to an amazing sale. Great roadside find!
101 South took us inland a bit and with hopes of continuing down the coast, we split towards Route 1 taking a very windy, wet and hilly road to where we wanted to be. Fort Bragg Glass Beach was our next destination and we weren't going to let the adverse conditions or roadways judge our path. We were ROAMIN! That beach was a trip. When we finally made it to sea level, the sand was littered with soft sea glass and other finds. Apparently, the overabundance of sea glass in this specific location is attributed to historic off shores 'recycling' operations. With pockets filled with sea glass, we hoped back into the car to reach our destination at a casino lot outside of Point Area, CA.
The rain had stopped from the sky but the hills were over saturated and little streams ran from any nook or cranny in the sandy hillsides. An ominous sign flashed by on the drive stating the highway was closed in 30 miles. With a quick view of the GPS, we noted our destination to be only 29 miles away. Lucky! Well as we drove in the dark, Garmin had us take the last available left off the highway right before the closure. This short road went up a hill and then back down just to leave us facing a raging river that swallowed the road.
We pause for a second to consider options and we quickly figure this is an impasse and that backtracking is necessary. Well, the fool driving the car thought a K turn into a muddy alcove would get us turned about. It sure did get us stuck in the mud and with a heavy camper in tow, the Subaru struggled to get purchase for the reverse motion. Not only that, the execution of the turn was poor at best and a K turn would not work the way as planned. The headlamps go on and we assess the situation from outside. Emergency snow/sand platforms were smushed under the wheels for traction and with TC turned off, I backed the Subaru out the hole and with the remaining momentum, forced the rig in reverse uphill until we were safe.
Our plan B was to check out the KOA up the road. Signs said $35 a night just to have us car camp. No way Jose! In this small flooded town with no stores and very few options led to a brilliant but desperate idea. I brought us to the local Fire house and EMT dispatch and knocked on the door. After a moment of despair, the door opened and a guy asked what we needed. We gave our story of the lost traveler with no where to go for the night and no money for the KOA. Sympathy took hold and they let us use their gravel lot for the night to park our car and sleep. Before heading out the next morning, the local Sheriff rolled up and we chatted about the road conditions and he assumed it would be open by late afternoon. A small delay but we would be on our way.
Time was killed at the beach and by 11 AM, we pressed our luck with the road and sure enough, she was open for our continuation. By Jenner, CA, Liz has had enough of the twisty coastal road highway and we could escape to the inland route before reaching our destination outside of Oakland CA. Traffic around San Fran was to be expected as we arrived just as 'rush hour' started. Surprisingly though, our route took us to a very densely vegetated part of Oakland and once again, the road went wild with lefts and rights, ups and downs until we reached the beautiful grounds of Anthony Chabot. We were one of a few other folks camping that weekend and so it was quite the quiet campground which was nice; and for only $25 a night, we made the choice to spend 3 nights instead of 2 to give us more time to spend with friends.
Day one was spent exploring Oakland and its Chinatown district where we got some great grub and window shopped a bit. We also walked around Lake Merritt and fed the birds some seed at the wildlife sanctuary.
Day two, Liz and I ventured into San Fran to see a few things. With time restraints, we manage to see Pier 39 with its lovable seal platforms and shopping mall, Musee Mecanique on Pier D7 which hosts a range of coin op machines from the turn of the century and on, and Lombard street teaming with tourists. It wouldn't be a trip to San Fran without a visit to the Haight/Ashbury area so we drove over and took in the sights, signs and smells of the district known for its peace, love and hippie happiness. From there, we met up with Shayna and Ki once more at Golden Gate park where we planned a picnic in front of the Conservatory of Flowers. While there, noised from behind us garnered our attention to view a bike festival. Local bike crafters showed off their home builds which included highrise structures, one of which shaped like a tree, and a bike which transformed from a low rider to a 5 ft high prop job. Quite the sight.
Waking early the next morning, we broke camp for our next stop, Monterrey! The drive was short with minimal hassle and we arrived with plenty of time to meet our host. We met Cynthia and Steve at Dinkey Creek over the summer. They were memorable folks who we clicked with with us and also returned for a second surprise visit on our last week of work in the woods. Cynthia offer to take us to the Aquarium since her library offered 6 free passes to members for the year. We embraced the idea of a free amazing aquarium which would normally have set us back $100. In addition to free admission, we also received a warm, home cooked meal of meatloaf in trade for tales of the whimsy of our journey.
Our night in Monterrey was nothing outside the norm from what we were previously catching. Option one was to stay at the Laguna Seca raceway. When we arrived, the road took a steep turn up a 16% grade to the kiosk which was of course closed for the off-season. The signs showed closures at most loops and only left were the electric locations at $37.80 a night! Ummmm, no. Once again, we are too stubborn to pay such an outrageous amount just to sleep in a car. Option two was a hot tip online that led us a half hour up the road to Carmel-by-the-Sea's Safeway. Driving into the parking lot at 11 PM, we were welcomed by other small RV's and vans parked in the back lot. Of course we went into the store and asked the workers there what the deal was. They did NOT give explicit authorization and said that grounds teams patrolled the shopping area and would promptly ask overnighters to leave. With no more options for the night, we took a chance and parked out by the other sleepers. No beds were made and the car remained in travel mode in case we were expressed to leave the area. I personally slept a total of about 3 hours cumulative keeping an eye out for cops and patrol people.
Nothing came of it and we were rolling out of town by 7 AM. A stop at Moss Landing led us to Elkhorn Slough which provided a haven for sea otters. Those furry pups splashed in the water and sunned on the sand while we watched from afar with the binoculars. We also saw some seals and a few birds worth mentioning. The drive led us from the coast, back towards Dinkey Creek, to Thor's house were we talked of everything and nothing in particular. A beautiful sunset and stir fry capped our stay on the mountain that night.
In the AM, we worked our way down the hill and South through Bakersfield. The next destination before intercepting with family was to spend a few days in the desert for a nice dry and warm stay. Well, we sure didnt get it. Our stop in the Lucerne Valley was on BLM land and near a dry lake bed.
We arrived in pitch darkness in a drizzle. The light rain was unexpected since I assumed we would stay dry for our stay in the desert scrub region of southern CA. The gnome took to the sandy unpaved road and we drove into a wall of darkness down a dry lake bed. The darkness and lake of nothingness drowned out the headlights while the massive electric lines provided disorienting structures in the sky. Managing to stay on a path, we drove till a spot manifested and we popped camp. Over night and through the morning, more rain and low hanging clouds. Strong winds were forecaster for the next day so we didn't have high hopes for a clear day :( We just couldn't shake the dreary weather. Luckily we had minimal plans and got cosy by the heater.
We attempted to Subie splash around in the now rehydrated lake bed and quickly took on mud. With TC off, I made quick work to turn us around and back once we came. Fortunately, the lake bed wasn't the only path in and out. We scoped a few routes to get us out of our camp spot as the rain continued. That night, we snuggled in but it wasnt long before I had to wake and evacuate my stomach. Something wanted out and it kept me up all night using the lands as a scattered target practice. The rain stayed off which was nice but my innards were broken by bug or bad food.
The next day and change I spent in a sleepy stupor, unable to eat or drink as a fever took over. With no imminent plans, we waited out the symptoms until ready to move on South to the final destination of San Diego for Christmas. On the day of our departure, my illness was easing back and we hitched the camper. Snow was topping the nearby peaks and grey clouds hung low. Certain parts of the road were flooded and hail happened in numerous short bursts on the drive. Even into the San Diego suburbs, hail and micro bursts hit the area inundating the inappropriate water systems. Roads and yards were flooded and beads of hail coated roofs and cars. Regardless, we made it to our destination for the holidays and were certainly happy about it.
We have a dry warm home in the sun of San Diego. At least till Phoenix. Lets see it rain there!
THE GNOME WISHES ALL A
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
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