New Experiences in New Zealand - Part 3

We just entered Queenstown via an extremely steep and hairpin road withother. We were to spend the next three days in this city with loose plans of relaxation and fun. On the night of our arrival, Liz and I broke loose from the family fathers for dinner. We ended up in town at a well know and delicious pizzeria called Winnie's. We had a table for two on an open air veranda up the second floor. We had a few beers and some pizza and just watched the masses flow through the shopping center as the sun set over the city. After the meal, we walked the streets to explore the gift shops and other local establishments. By 10:30, the air had chilled and a strong wind picked up so we headed back to the HippoLodge, our hostel accommodation for the stay. The four of us had our own room next to a bathroom at the minimal frills establishment.

On the second day, we got a recommendation from Micky at the front desk for a winery nearby called Gibbston Valley Winery. We headed out of town to the winery and explored their Cheesery which had samples of cheese, spreads, and honeys. We also paid the 15$ for the cave tour which included the recent history of the winery and pinot gris vine culture in the region. It also came with a couple tastings which were amazing. After the tour, we sat down to lunch at their outdoor eating area which had a lovely patio in the shade. The food came out the kitchen and our senses were treated to one of the more amazing meals eaten. Each dish was simplistic yet the flavors were elating and when paired with their suggested wine per meal, the choice was right.The rest of the night was spent back at the hostel. During our dinner at the barbie outside, we heard a rustling in the bushes. Liz checked and found a big ol brown European hedgehog! He was not pleased to be found out even though his foraging was making quite some noise. Liz left him alone so he could find the rest of his nightly meal.

On our third day in town, we decided to ride the gondola up to the top of the mountain which over looks the city of Queenstown. It was quite impressive to see such a beautiful vista.



We also hiked a short yet steep path to the top of a hill where we located a geocache. While up there, we met an older couple from New Caledonia who said that my grandfather on the Glaser side was a figure in their history and even had a road named after him. Cool! We had two more activities to do while atop the hill. The first was a downhill luge for which we purchased 3 rides. The sloping and curving paths were fun for all and the rides were a blast! Unfortunately, we opted not to buy the ride photos. Finally, we were treated to a show of the Maori Haka; a series of ritual dances including chest slapping, foot stomping and chanting. The dances were performed for all types of ceremonies including greetings, weddings and celebrations. Little did we know that the male viewers were to be trained as performers on stage. Some of my fellow men on stage were way off beat and their tongue skills lacking.

Post dinner, we started preparing for our big day tomorrow. Food had to be planned, purchased and packed; gear had to be located, locked and set and bodies had to be well rested for the Routeburn Track which was to come in the AM.

We woke up the next morning bright and early. Bags were packed and the car was loaded. We checked out of the Hippolodge hostel which had been our home for the past three nights. The day prior, Liz and I grabbed our prepaid Hut and Camping tickets from the DOC at the local storefront in Queenstown. We had set the arrangements for these tickets in September and even with that much advance, there was still alot of competition for the passes. The cost was fairly minimal and helps pay for park Wardens to care for and clean the stops/facilities and also for improvements to swing bridges and pathways. On our way out of town, we stopped to get a meal and headed on our way to Glenochy which is a small town north of Queenstown and the starting point for our trek.

A long gravel road brought us to the trail head and we double checked our packs before hitting the track. The weather the first day was gorgeous. The winding forested trail had numerous small bridges traversing streams and rivers. Ascent in elevation was fairly minimal and it didnt take too much of a toll on us to hike the 3-hr course to our first stopping point; the Flats Hut, situated in a meadow which over looks a stream and the mountains. We met folks from all over the world who were staying in this cabin on the trail. Some of these hikers would be travelling the same path as us while others were just finishing their remaining portion we had completed that day. During dinner at the hut, we met a few people who would prove to be friendly faces. They were Heinrich and Nina: German newly weds on their honeymoon to NZ before starting their marriage and Roy: a retired Limnologist and overall science buff from Maine who was hiking the trail at his own speed. Prior to bedtime, we pinged people about what to expect the next day on our estimated 8 hour hike. Most talked about how long of a day it was going to be but totally worth the efforts to continue on. At this point, there was no turning back.

The morning of the second day, my alarm went off at 6:30. Numerous hut dwellers had already been up for some time and were packing or on their way out the door prior to the sun even peaking through the valley. Since members of our party were still unfamiliar with the packing process, it took about 45 minutes for the gang to rise and be ready to begin the long haul. As soon as we hit the trail, we were faced with a length of switchbacks that brought our elevation out of the flats and to the Falls Hut. This immediately demanding stretch challenged some of our team but we took our time and watched our step on the loose gravel parts. When we reached the Falls Hut, the Warden was updating the weather forecast for the upcoming days. The second day was all clear but by nightfall and the next few days, the area was to experience a cold front with windy rain and unpleasant hiking conditions. JOY!

 The hike continued onward into the Harris Saddle which was an area of huge weathered boulders sliced from the mountains on either side. A stream meandered through the low portion of the saddle forming small oxbow lakes before leading to the Falls. The main portion of this hike was above the tree line in the low scrub region which provided amazing 360' views of the region. After hiking for 4 hours, we reached a shelter at the midway point. This area also led to a short but steep path to the top of Conical Hill which was the stage for the next part of our story.

The group of four worked our way up the narrow rocky path to the summit of Conical Hill which overlooked the whole Harris Saddle to the east and the Hollyford Valley to the west. The weather at summit had changed to a cloudy grey atmosphere very near the cloud line and very windy. As the gang took pictures from the vista, I planned my next steps. I gave my father the good camera and told him to be ready. Then, in that moment I pulled Liz aside. I got down on one knee and confessed my love for her. The words were nothing memorable but the sentiment was there at summit on Valentines Day. She Said Yes! The ring fit was a tad tight but the Swiss blue topaz looked stellar on the silver band adorned with hand crafted leaves.

We descended the hill and had a small meal of salami, cheese and pita bread before getting our packs back on to resume the trail. The hike continued to travel above the trees with amazing visibility to the mountains and valleys below. After another three hours, we finally saw Lake Mackenzie below. The trail took us down into a dense lush green forest with moss from every tangible spot; rocks, trees, branches, dirt, if it stayed there longer than a week, it was bound to be covered in moss. We reached the campsite at nearly the 8 hour hiking mark. We dropped packs and began to set up camp on the small campsite provided. Before long, the tents were set and we were surprised by a visit from Nina, Heinrich and Roy  who were staying up the path in the huts that night.They had overheard from by large mouthed father that we had gotten engaged during the day and they wanted to congratulate us on the great news. It was a very heartfelt gesture of them coming to see us and the ring; especially after the tiring hike that day.

We settled into our sleeping bags quite early that night in anticipation of the wet morning to come. Luckily during the night, it only drizzled a little and the wind kept it down to a heavy breeze at times. The rain was intermittent and during one break, the team made full efforts to take down camp and get ready for the 4 hour hike remaining. Leaving camp was bitter sweet but we moved on and once again were faced with more switchbacks to raise above the tree line, something that's not all too fun in a downpour with a 45lb pack on your back. We kept a steady pace and finished on the 4 hour mark. The SUV was retrieved from the parking lot and we quickly loaded the gear to GTFO for the next adventure in the fjord lands and Mount Cook, the tallest mountain in the country.

Thanks for following along and be sure to come back in a few to read the conclusionary fourth part of the epic NZ trip.

All photos are credited to Liz Fulton.

New Experiences in New Zealand - Part 2

Welcome back. When we last left off, the gang was just about to embark on an over night camping trip to the ballroom overhang. Let's continue where we left off.

As we started hiking into the dense jungle of Paparora National Park, we were eager to reach our destination of the Ballroom Overhang, a natural geological rock overhang along the Fox River which hosted glow worms on the walls and ceiling. Hiking along the trail, we followed the orange arrows all the way to our first river crossing. We scoped the destination via the orange arrow and it was across a river approximately 200ft wide and a maximum of 3ft deep at times. We stuck to the shallower areas to avoid getting too wet. For the crossing, we all de-booted and doned flip-flops supplied by Old Navy. This obviously took a few minutes to complete the process in addition to rebooting on the other side of the river. The trail took us on a narrow path through the valley which surrounded us with giant ferns and palm trees.

As we hiked further in, the valley walls ascended quickly to heights of over 700ft. It was unreal. We reached our second river crossing and once again went to flip flop mode. By this time, we noticed the sun slowly setting in the valley. It was around 9pm with no sign of camp. 

Unbenounced to the team, Bernard had forgotten to pack his sandals from the car and had been going barefoot in the gravelly river bed. This took a great toll on his stamina and morale. After the second crossing, we had to hit the gas pedal.

As the sun set, head lamps were set on and we continued to hike in the dark. Fatigue set in and the river crossings became unbearable for the shoeless. Liz offered her sandals to Bernard which were quickly swept away in the fast moving river, Oops. Now with two barefoot people, we were nearly stranded in the river bed. My father and I held ground in a sandy part of the rock river bed, meanwhile Liz and Mark decided to scout ahead and see if the camp could be found. They promised to return within a half hour while Bernard and myself started to make camp setting up tents and eat a very unsettling meal while the other half ventured in the dark.

We waited nervously and finally saw faint lights in the dark shining on the canyon walls. I left our makeshift camp and thankfully found the two troopers worn and tired with no sign of their quarry. Our group of four, now reunited, rested under the stars on a partly cloudy night with faint glowworms on the cave walls hundreds of feet above. Minor successes.

In the morning we broke camp to head out of the valley. As we doned gear, an older couple walked by and proclaimed that the ballroom was only a few minutes walk up stream. The scouts had completely missed it in the darkness. Regardless, we dragged ourselves out of the jungle towards the car park. As we came to the mid point, we passed a sign for a 30minute walk to a cave nearby. We mustered the energy to follow the path and quickly learned that the estimated time of 30minutes was for Usain Bolt on the fast track at the Olympics. With 50lb packs still on, we climbed slippery moss covered rocks until we reached the cave entrance an hour and a half later. At that point, we barely wanted to enter the cave but we put our head `torches` on and discovered some good old calcite deposits (stalagtites\stalagmites) within. Packs back on, we headed to the car park and got the hell out of dodge.

While on the road to Franz Josef Glacier via SH6 (our next destination) we stopped at a roadside attraction called Pancake Rocks, an amazing series of jutting rocks on the coastline which featured pancake like stacks. The actual process was formed from layers of hard and soft oceanic deposits overtime with the soft being eroded away. The worn rocks cast a very dramatic setting for the west coast of NZ.

Once done with the Pancake Rocks, we continued south down the coast to the town of Franz Josef Glacier, a stopping point on our tour. That night, we slept very well. The next morning, we woke up, packed our bags and spent a few hours walking to the base of the glacier which had greatly receeded since the early 2000's; so much so that hiking to the glacier is no longer possible and can only be toured via helicopter. 

We appreciated it from a distance and then enjoyed the walk back to the car for our next leg of the trip to Queenstown. Before we reached our destination, we came across a huge glacial river bed with EVERY stone perfect for skipping. They were all smooth circular rocks and so naturally it became a competition; with the view and atmosphere, I think we were all winners.

Additionally, we passed a 2 minute hike to see some waterfalls but when we got there, it was the enormous amount of stone stacks that were erected in the river bed; one of which was just about as tall as me!

Queenstown is the adventure capital of NZ which hosts multiple companies that let you parasail, paraglide, skydive, bungee jump, zip line, jet boat, mtn bike. . . Etc. Keep reading the next post to see which wild and crazy stunts we chose to throw our bodies into!!!

New experiences in New Zealand -Post 1

Kia Ora (A Maori greeting informally translated to "hi")

Start: We finally made it to New Zealand. It only took two days and three planes but we got there. The following is just a capture of some of the fun we had while down under.

It started with a 6hr plane ride from Newark to LA. My father had asked me to try and find activities to do while on our ten hour layover. Unfortunately, I couldn't really find something too exciting that was local to LAX that would tickle our fancy. We ended up getting a ride from the airport to lunch with my dads boss in an Italian place near the beach. After that, we walked on the sand and down a jetty just to kill some time. We were dropped off later in the day and waited out the remaining 4hrs of the layover in the LAX terminal which is very modern and slick. As we were boarding our second flight of the day from LAX to Auckland, a group of dragons came parading down the hall with drums and cymbals clashing behind them. To my surprise, it was the Chinese New Year (monkey) and they were having a good old time dancing to the drum beats. Definitely a sign of the good times to come.

We boarded Air New Zealand to Auckland which was a 12hr flight. My father had splurged and got the sky couch feature which basically gets you a row of three seats that the leg rests can raise horizontally and thus provide a 'bed' for sleeping. We attempted to squeeze in on this firm couch in numerous positions but it just wasn't comfy. I managed to sleep a few hours namely from exhaustion. When I woke up, the whole plane was asleep for the most part and there my dad was, watching a movie or something. He recommended I watch a documentary that was available in the flight movies. It followed the success and dramas of the musical masterminds Draft Punk. It was only an hour long but was fantastic. I slept a few more times on and off during this flight and then just binge watched Rick and Morty S2 which was in the flight viewing menu. The flight landed fine but Auckland was extremely humid and pouring; not the kind of vacation weather we were hoping for.

Before getting the next flight, we had to go through Customs which included a thorough questionnaire about foods, bugs, plants and outdoor equipment. Of course we had tents and boots and the works for this trip which set off red flags. The tents were taken by TSA to be "cleaned" of any potential foreign contamination. Once they were done (~15 mins), I had to repack my tent and bag before my pending flight in an hour! Luckily I am a packing boss and was able to get it done very quickly. To get to the domestic terminal from the international terminal for the next flight, we had to walk about a half mile in the pouring rain with ~80lbs of baggage. It wasn't fun but neither would be missing that flight. The hiking backpacks were once again checked into baggage storage and the flight from Auckland to Christchurch was quick and painless. While I fetched the bags from the carousel, Dad worked with Hertz to get the rental set up. He ran off to use the restroom and comes out looking like he had seen a ghost. Apparently his phone, which is one of the only working phones we had, suicide dive bombed the toilet and was now a brick.

The car rental went smoothy and we got the biggest SUV to dwarf all the puny NZ cars to shame. 'MURICA! The built in GPS was a huge plus since we had no clue where to go. At first, dads driving was shocking and worrisome. Although the roads and driver seats were revered from normal, he was driving like a first timer. Yikes. We drove straight to the Old Country House hostel in Christchurch where we would spend the night. A much needed shower was provided to remove the stench of travel from our bodies. Later that day, we drove and walked around the heart of Christchurch to see what it was all about. We walked this two block radius where the stores were built out of retrofitted shipping containers containing coffee shops, vendors and even a bank. We also stocked up on groceries and fuel for the camp stove. There was a lot of awesome wall art through out the city, one of which we witnessed taken place via scissor lift to paint the massive wall space fluorescent pinks and purples.

It was also incredible to see the damage and rebuilding process of the earthquake which hit the region in 2011. Whole city blocks had been demolished and are under construction leaving road closures and one ways to muddle our path around town.  We called it an early night since jet lag was kicking in.

On Sunday, we drove from Christchurch to Kaikoura to meet with the Fulton Fam who had arrived the day prior to hike Mount Fyffe in Kiakoura. 

We drove north via State Highway (SH) 1 from Christchurch to Kaikoura, which was a decent drive filled with twisty roads, mountainous landscapes, and pastures of sheep and cows. We checked in at the iSite which can be found in most towns and cities and range from a info billboard to a small shop with maps and public restrooms. We located the meet up spot on the map and headed out of town to find the Mt Fyffe trail head. Following a dusty gravel road, we eventually got to the car park and awaited the Fulton's arrival. Two ladies who had just finished the trail asked if we were there to pick up two Americans named Liz and Mark. Why yes we were. How awesome! The ladies let us know that Fulton fam wasn't far behind and I ran up the steep trail to meet them. They were visibly worn out from the hike so I grabbed a pack and helped Liz down to the car. They had summited Fyffe in the early morning dew above the clouds which lingered over the coast.

From there, we returned to town but not before getting a cow roadblock. Bernard used his powers to stop the herd while I brought the car through. We checked into the Pier Hotel in Kaikoura which had a very rustic vibe. Apparently the hotel was built in the late 1800's on the old wharf and then was relocated in the 1920's to the new wharf in town. Why? Who knows but it must have been a feat in that time. The hotel sat atop an associated restaurant and check in wasn't anything more than a composition book at the bar. We unpacked a bit and got some fish and chips in town before heading to the Ohau waterfall. We also came across a large group of seals on the shore that were playing in the tide pools and sunning themselves. Liz took a "couple" pictures of the seals (~300).

Back at the hotel, we took some high pressure hot showers and by then, it was bordering 8:30. The restaurant downstairs was enough to feed the hungry. The service was something to be desired but everyone enjoyed their meal and that's what counts. We retired to our separate rooms for the night and enjoyed our sleepy time.

In the morning, we ate the continental breakfast (toast and jam) and some sausage we got at the supermarket. The shops in Kaikoura provided some souvenir options and once done perusing, we hit the road for the Ballroom Overhang hike and camp. Driving a desolate winding route 88 through the hills of the Amuri Range, the views surpassed expectations and the word of the day was once again "WOW". 

Hanmer Springs off SH7 was a good stopping point for lunch. The town is very similar to Aspen Colorado in appearances and is known for its skiing and hot springs. It was a beautiful sunny day so we did take out and ate in the park. Another few hours of driving was down the road so we didn't spend too long in the town.

Following SH7 westbound, we eventually reached the town of Reefton. We opted to drive north via route 69 which snaked along the beautiful deep blue Buller River. Our destination was getting close but the clock was not on our side. By the time we reached the Fox River car park in the Paparoa National Park, it was already boarding 6pm. Our backpacks were assessed and gear was set for the hike to come. An old woman in the car park asked where we were heading. Once we gave an answer, her face seemed to cringe as if she knew something we didn't. She warned about the nasty sand flies and the 10 river crossings. We brushed it off being the troopers we were and got on the track by about 7pm. Being in the southern hemisphere during summer, we estimated that we had about 2hours of light left which should have been plenty to get to the destination and start camp setup. We had no idea what we were in store for and the outcome of this hike was one that we will never forget. . . .